| Of all the topics related to ball python care, feeding is | | | | degrees (Fahrenheit) on the cooler side, and 92 - 96 |
| by far the hottest topic. I know this for a fact, | | | | degrees on the warmer side. This range has worked |
| because it's the number-one thing people ask about | | | | well for me over the years. |
| when they send me emails. What do I feed my ball | | | | - Temperatures are physiologically connected to |
| python? How often does it need to eat? What | | | | appetite and feeding response. If your cage is too |
| should I do when it refuses to eat? | | | | cool or too warm, the snake will not eat. It will suffer |
| Here is what I've learned over the years, by caring | | | | other health problems as well. So get the temps right |
| for more than a dozen snakes: | | | | from day one. |
| - You can feed a baby once every 5 - 7 days, and | | | | - There are many ways to feed a snake in captivity. |
| adults every 7 - 10 days. Of course, the snake will | | | | You can simply drop the rodent into the cage, move |
| decide when it wants to eat, and it may refuse | | | | the ball python into a separate feeding container, or |
| meals once in a while. But the schedule above is a | | | | offer the meal with a long pair of tongs. You may |
| good rule of thumb to follow. | | | | have to experiment with all three of these methods, |
| - You should offer one appropriately sized rodent per | | | | to find out what works best for you. |
| meal, as opposed to several smaller rodents. As a | | | | - Reluctant eaters can often be enticed by using |
| general rule, the meal should be about the size of the | | | | tongs. You can buy a long pair of stainless steel |
| snake's widest part (mid-body) or slightly larger. | | | | tongs for about $30, from reptile supply websites. By |
| - Ball pythons have a reputation for being finicky | | | | wiggling a frozen / thawed mouse or rat on a pair of |
| eaters in captivity. In my experience, this reputation | | | | tongs, you can make the prey seem alive. This will |
| is somewhat deserved. But most cases of meal | | | | encourage a stronger feeding response. |
| refusal are the result of improper habitat conditions. | | | | - Use caution when offering live rodents! Better yet, |
| If you want your pet to eat on a regular basis, you | | | | avoid this feeding technique entirely. A live mouse or |
| need to provide the ideal conditions. | | | | rat can seriously injure a ball python that doesn't kill it |
| - Ball pythons like it warm and dark. So when you set | | | | right away. My advice is to offer frozen / thawed |
| up your habitat, you need to have (A) proper | | | | prey, or freshly killed rodents. If you do offer live |
| temperatures and (B) some hiding places for your | | | | prey, be sure to keep a close watch. Don't ever |
| snake. | | | | leave them in the snake's cage unattended. |
| - I mentioned it above, but it's worth repeating. Offer | | | | Every time you feed your ball python, you will learn |
| your pet some hiding areas inside the cage. In the | | | | something. These are some of the lessons I have |
| wild, these snakes spend much of their time hiding in | | | | learned over many years. But there's certainly more |
| burrows dug by other animals, so they need to be | | | | to learn. If you would like additional tips and |
| able to hide in captivity as well. | | | | techniques on this subject, refer to the care guide |
| - The cage should have a thermal gradient, which | | | | mentioned below. |
| means one side is warmer than the other. This allows | | | | * Copyright 2009, Brandon Cornett. You may |
| the snake to thermo-regulate, moving from one side | | | | republish this article on your website as long as you |
| to the other as needed. I recommend 80 - 82 | | | | keep the citation hyperlinks below. |